North Shore Swell

Nice swell developing over the past couple of days for the final rounds of the Reef Hawaiian Pro and there should be some quality surfing from the guys who are left. A mix of surfers from the Dream Tour, WQS guys looking to make it and then the legend that is called Sunny Garcia, who has seen and done it all numerous times before - six (6!!) Triple Crown of Surfing titles.

Speaking of Sunny and swell, now that the invitees and alternates have been announced for the 2009 "In Memory of Eddie Aikau" all eyes will be on the forecasts to see if the conditions at Waimea are going to be huge enough to run the comp this year.

Here's a little run down on the mighty Waimea Bay ...

"Justly famed big wave arena, ridden from 6-30ft plus. Waimea proper is a right hand parachute drop monster breaking on a 28ft deep reef ledge. Not the world's longest wave, but perhaps the most exhilarating drop anywhere, followed by a massive wall section and possible annihilation by the foam ball.

Watch sets for at least 20 minutes before jump-off. Ask the lifeguards about the swell forecast; they will have incredibly accurate info from wave buoy, and will be able to tell you when the swell will peak, and how big it will be. There is even a pressure pad by Kaena Point that gives a few minutes warning if a 30ft plus set is approaching. Wave size can increase from 8 to 20 feet in a few hours.

Getting in: wait for a lull, then get in by running down the bank by the rocks at the Northern end and jumping / paddling like crazy. Keep right, the current will sweep you left into the channel. Too far left and you could be in the horrid dumpers at the South end.

Getting out: get a wave, then try to ride the foam ball back into the North end to beat the sweep and hug the rocks. This is you best shot at escaping the shore-break, which is at its most spine-snapping in the middle of the bay. Watch the approaching shore break and try to get back in on the back of the last wave of the set.

Crowds, drop-ins, Experts Only. If in any doubt, stay on the beach! On smaller days, Pinballs is an option on the inside. Shore break is notorious and menacing, although occasionally surfable."

Click here for info on more spots throughout the US & Hawaii.

Triple Crown up and running at Hale'iwa

Great week to start a blog on surfing with the Triple Crown finally getting under way out on Hawaii's North Shore. Conditions have been tiny but enough swell picked up yesterday to get through a few more heats of the Reef Hawaiian Pro with some quality waves being scored by Sunny Garcia and Clay Marzo.

Here's what we think about Hale'iwa:

"When it's on, it is one of the heaviest, fastest, hollowest rights imaginable. The main peak is about 300m out to sea, and the wave forms heavy sections all the way across to a shallow close-out spot (Toilet Bowl). Best a 6-8ft with prevailing Northeast trades and Northwest to West swell. When bigger, can get very rippy and bumpy, but quality is possible up to 10-20ft plus. Watch locals paddle out to gauge the current and best route. Flirt into the zone to get your wave, then hang wide between sets. Beginners can check the inside shore break. Crazy crowds in winter and for experts only, unless it's small.

Several hundred yards further out to sea lies Avalanche, a big wave with lefts up to 30ft not uncommon in winter. Tow-in-spot except Dec-May (whale season). An unreliable end section means that floggings are common even if you make the initial drop. Moving peaks mean constant paddling to reposition, and outside bombs are a constant risk - an avalanche of water on your head. Experts Only."

Click here for info on more spots throughout the US & Hawaii.