North Shore Swell

Nice swell developing over the past couple of days for the final rounds of the Reef Hawaiian Pro and there should be some quality surfing from the guys who are left. A mix of surfers from the Dream Tour, WQS guys looking to make it and then the legend that is called Sunny Garcia, who has seen and done it all numerous times before - six (6!!) Triple Crown of Surfing titles.

Speaking of Sunny and swell, now that the invitees and alternates have been announced for the 2009 "In Memory of Eddie Aikau" all eyes will be on the forecasts to see if the conditions at Waimea are going to be huge enough to run the comp this year.

Here's a little run down on the mighty Waimea Bay ...

"Justly famed big wave arena, ridden from 6-30ft plus. Waimea proper is a right hand parachute drop monster breaking on a 28ft deep reef ledge. Not the world's longest wave, but perhaps the most exhilarating drop anywhere, followed by a massive wall section and possible annihilation by the foam ball.

Watch sets for at least 20 minutes before jump-off. Ask the lifeguards about the swell forecast; they will have incredibly accurate info from wave buoy, and will be able to tell you when the swell will peak, and how big it will be. There is even a pressure pad by Kaena Point that gives a few minutes warning if a 30ft plus set is approaching. Wave size can increase from 8 to 20 feet in a few hours.

Getting in: wait for a lull, then get in by running down the bank by the rocks at the Northern end and jumping / paddling like crazy. Keep right, the current will sweep you left into the channel. Too far left and you could be in the horrid dumpers at the South end.

Getting out: get a wave, then try to ride the foam ball back into the North end to beat the sweep and hug the rocks. This is you best shot at escaping the shore-break, which is at its most spine-snapping in the middle of the bay. Watch the approaching shore break and try to get back in on the back of the last wave of the set.

Crowds, drop-ins, Experts Only. If in any doubt, stay on the beach! On smaller days, Pinballs is an option on the inside. Shore break is notorious and menacing, although occasionally surfable."

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